Is the problem with this one particular display or do all flat panels provoke this response? It sounds like you really don't get on with this OLED at all.

It’s pretty much all 4k displays due to the modern nature of panels with instant response time and a different method of image display.
I’m finally upgrading and didn’t realize this was going to be as much of a headache.
Essentially older tech would blur images together or have methods/pulldown to not look choppy. Modern displays hold a frame and then immediately switch without any disguising of the shift.

(2022-11-20, 09:09 PM)zoidberg Wrote: All this talk of panel tech got me thinking again about the flat CRT technology that never was, SED/FED displays. Both seem to have been forever sunk by corporate politics

I do miss the phosphor look and am sad that SEDs didn't make it but I have serious doubts the tech would survive modern energy regulations.

What? I'm planning on buying an Alienware aw3423dwf ultrawide, I hope it's not a problem when watching discs from the computer.

Energy consumption is a big thing. My plasma uses a TON and emits all kinds of stuff which is why it burns out any speakers nearby. That was one of my primary reasons for upgrading.

Well after rereading an old projector central article while researching stuttering on a whim I tried turning off 24p in my player to see what it would do.
Wouldn’t you know it actually helped immensely? As it was the OLED was stuttering significantly more than my Plasma-but after jumping back to compare the plasma still had quite a bit going on.
24p off looks much closer to the old school look and feel motion I get in 1080i on my hdcrt as it means the same kind of 3:2 pull-down effect. The onboard oled conemotion is supposed to do this automatically but doesn’t do much of anything. It may not be ideal but if it helps me get used to this tv I might try it for a while.

Why in the world they can’t replicate a film projector’s shutter in a modern tv is beyond me.

Unfortunately modern displays are geared towards eyeball searing brightness and anything simulating a traditional film projector is going to mitigate the maximum nits the display can emit. Even film projectors went to great lengths to reduce the time of the intermittent movement as faster movements meant narrower shutter blades=brighter image for a given light source (most had a 2 blade shutter ie 48Hz).
Does DCP projection bother you as well? I will have to check but I think most professional units are 3-chip and have no physical shutter, but probably double or triple the refresh rate to 48/72Hz. Also the light output is considerably lower which makes a difference.
Yes something like SEDs would probably fall foul of modern energy regs but they would have at least had their moment in the sun so to speak and there would be units in the wild for the likes of us to seek out, much the same with every other obsolete tech. Although what is energy efficient about buying the latest model every year, which is what the manufacturers would happily have us do

I think I’m maybe a little more acclimated to it. I got the lag set for my receiver so I wouldn’t have to use the silly arc mode that doesn’t pass HD codecs. Last night I ran two films with opposite transfer qualities: WAC Horror of Dracula and the Second Sight The Mummy.

A little disorienting but no longer headache inducing.

Now that the players have gone on sale again I hope to have one here in the next week and start all over again with setting up HDR.

(2022-11-22, 08:44 PM)captainsolo Wrote: Now that the players have gone on sale again I hope to have one here in the next week and start all over again with setting up HDR.

Glad to hear you’re getting there with it. With my Panasonic OLED the only setting I have that’s different for HDR is the backlight so hopefully it’s as easy for you once you’ve got the player. Which one are you thinking of getting?

Is your player outputting 24p?

Yes I’ve tried with 24p on and off.

If I run through my receiver that creates a delay which I try to correct with setting the sync offset in the receiver. That gets pretty close but I can’t quite fine tune it just right.
If I run directly into the oled it seems relatively ok but still not as good as game mode.
I’ve turned off the TV’s sync settings which seemed to make the response a bit quicker. I also have to change sync settings for 24p content vs non 24p content.

Is there a more accurate way to check and set av sync? I’ve tried adjusting with my receiver over and over with the old test pattern on digital video essentials and the tv’s YouTube app doesn’t have sync issues so I can’t use online test patterns.

I finally gave up and used two players with two copies of the same disc one going directly to the tv and one to the receiver first. That got me pretty close after trying to exactly match the two but it’s still not perfect.