2015-05-13, 06:47 PM
From Wikipedia:
From now, let's use timing only for printed film, and grading for all the other cases.
The original negative has no timing at all, right? So, if a release is based on a film original negative scan, it *should* be regraded; at the contrary, if the master is taken from a release print, the timing could be preserved.
The former, if the intention is to have a color grading equal (or similar) to the one watched in the theaters, needs some kind of reference; a release print could be expected, that usually is not used as a master for various reasons - generation quality loss, used print often needs cleaning due to age, dirt, wear etc.
Of course, the whole process will be made in the digital domain; this *should* lead to a different result of the color timing, because the latter was made photochemically, and I think it's impossible to recreate perfectly those nuances - due to several reasons expert could surely explain better.
So, let's say that 100% is the right, original, color timing seen in the theaters at the day the movie was projected for the first time... let's say also studios are so lucky to find a first generation release print, projected maybe once, then stored in the proper conditions, the best ever found... now, given the right conditions - lamp color, best scanner etc. - it is supposed to obtain a very near copy, color wise, of the release print... let's say 95% - I think is impossible to better this result IMHO.
A negative scan will be better in resolution, but, after the proper, carefully chosen, scene by scene, shot by shot, digital color regrading, how close to the original color timing could it be? I mean, could be better, color wise, than the scan of a release print?
Frankly, I can't answer, but, according to what I read all around the net, the situation where the colors of some scenes are really close to the release print, while others are a bit, or a lot, way off, is due to the fact that it's not (always) possible to recreate digitally the photochemical process...
At the end, let's say that the best color grading of a negative scan could reach an overall 90% - and this will be a great result - but this is the average quality... in few scenes, it will be 100% like the release print, while in others will be 90%, 80% and so on, while the release print scan would have the quality consistent for the whole movie.
So, thinking about the techniques we, project makers, use for our project, it would be possible to obtain a very detailed version of the negative, with the color of the positive print... and it's quite easy... how?
Well, given the fact we have both O-negative and a very good positive prints, we should scan them at the best resolution possible - 8K will be great, but 6K should do; 4K is good, but 2K should be avoided; using the same scanner, they should be spatially aligned; so, we could take the negative luma, the positive chroma, and combine them, obtaining the same resolution of the negative, and a reduced chroma resolution of the positive, that will be more than enough for any BD (or Ultra-BD).
What do you think?
Quote:Color grading is the process of altering and enhancing the color of a motion picture, video image, or still image either electronically, photo-chemically or digitally. The photo-chemical process is also referred to as color timing and is typically performed at a photographic laboratory.
From now, let's use timing only for printed film, and grading for all the other cases.
The original negative has no timing at all, right? So, if a release is based on a film original negative scan, it *should* be regraded; at the contrary, if the master is taken from a release print, the timing could be preserved.
The former, if the intention is to have a color grading equal (or similar) to the one watched in the theaters, needs some kind of reference; a release print could be expected, that usually is not used as a master for various reasons - generation quality loss, used print often needs cleaning due to age, dirt, wear etc.
Of course, the whole process will be made in the digital domain; this *should* lead to a different result of the color timing, because the latter was made photochemically, and I think it's impossible to recreate perfectly those nuances - due to several reasons expert could surely explain better.
So, let's say that 100% is the right, original, color timing seen in the theaters at the day the movie was projected for the first time... let's say also studios are so lucky to find a first generation release print, projected maybe once, then stored in the proper conditions, the best ever found... now, given the right conditions - lamp color, best scanner etc. - it is supposed to obtain a very near copy, color wise, of the release print... let's say 95% - I think is impossible to better this result IMHO.
A negative scan will be better in resolution, but, after the proper, carefully chosen, scene by scene, shot by shot, digital color regrading, how close to the original color timing could it be? I mean, could be better, color wise, than the scan of a release print?
Frankly, I can't answer, but, according to what I read all around the net, the situation where the colors of some scenes are really close to the release print, while others are a bit, or a lot, way off, is due to the fact that it's not (always) possible to recreate digitally the photochemical process...
At the end, let's say that the best color grading of a negative scan could reach an overall 90% - and this will be a great result - but this is the average quality... in few scenes, it will be 100% like the release print, while in others will be 90%, 80% and so on, while the release print scan would have the quality consistent for the whole movie.
So, thinking about the techniques we, project makers, use for our project, it would be possible to obtain a very detailed version of the negative, with the color of the positive print... and it's quite easy... how?
Well, given the fact we have both O-negative and a very good positive prints, we should scan them at the best resolution possible - 8K will be great, but 6K should do; 4K is good, but 2K should be avoided; using the same scanner, they should be spatially aligned; so, we could take the negative luma, the positive chroma, and combine them, obtaining the same resolution of the negative, and a reduced chroma resolution of the positive, that will be more than enough for any BD (or Ultra-BD).
What do you think?